Red Wine Braised Short Ribs

For the ribs

• 4 lb bone-in beef short ribs, cut into 3–4" pieces, patted dry
• 2½ tsp kosher salt
• 1 tsp black pepper, coarsely ground
• 2 tbsp neutral oil

1. Salt and pepper the ribs on all sides and set them on a rack in the fridge, uncovered, overnight. If you don't have the time, an hour on the counter works.
2. Heat the oven to 325°F. Heat the oil in a 6 to 7-quart Dutch oven over medium-high until it shimmers. Sear the ribs in two batches, 3–4 minutes per face. You're looking for dark mahogany with some near-black edges. Set the ribs aside.
3. Pour off all but about 2 tbsp of fat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery cut-side down and leave them alone for 6–8 minutes.
4. Push the vegetables to the side, add the garlic cut-side down and the tomato paste to the bare spot. Cook 2 minutes, stirring the paste against the pot.
5. Add the wine and scrape hard at the bottom until the fond releases. Simmer uncovered until reduced by half, 10–12 minutes.
6. Nestle the ribs back in, bone-side down, and add the stock, soy, balsamic, thyme, and bay leaves. Liquid should come about two-thirds up the meat. Place a cartouche on top of the ribs.
7. Lid on, into the oven for 3 to 3½ hours. A meat thermometer should slide into the rib neat easily.
8. Let it rest off heat 30 minutes, then skim the fat with a wide shallow spoon.
9. Lift the ribs out, strain the liquid, and discard the solids. Simmer the liquid hard until it coats a spoon and a finger swiped through leaves a line that holds, about 8–12 minutes, but go by the spoon test. Off the heat, whisk in the Dijon and butter. Taste, then add a splash of vinegar to brighten up the sauce.
10. Return the ribs to the sauce and reheat gently, spooning it over them until they're glossy. In the pot, the sauce should look slightly looser than you want on the plate, since it will tighten as it cools.